Liv-ex Fine Wine Market Blog

Bordeaux 2012: Gavin Quinney's weather report

Guest blog: During the Bordeaux 2012 harvest the Bordeaux grower, local winemaker and writer Gavin Quinney (@GavinQuinney) provided an insider's view on growing conditions. Here he gives a comprehensive weather report, comparing conditions for the 2012 with previous vintages. 

This week, wine trade professionals from around the world descend on Bordeaux for the annual circus of tasting wines from the latest vintage.

When tasting barrel samples, it can be helpful to have an idea of how the weather influenced the wine. The weather defines the vintage and, for me at least, it’s interesting to assess how each Chateau - in fact, the people - handled the challenges of the season, given their terroir and resources.

I wrote a 2012 harvest report for Liv-ex last October, and this is my third annual Bordeaux weather report on this blog.

After the two outstanding vintages of 2009 and 2010, it's only normal that onlookers will compare 2012 with 2011. Yet the weather conditions in 2011 and 2012 could hardly have been more different, even if we like to slot two years into the same bracket of 'good but not great'. 

12 weather highlights in 2012:

1. A late bud-burst and a wet April meant a slow start - the opposite of 2011.

2. Mildew was a real threat and had to be kept in check.

3. Mixed weather in June resulted in the flowering being drawn out.

4. Bordeaux enjoyed an excellent summer from mid-July to late September. 

5. August was dry and hot but veraison (when grapes change colour) was spread out.

6. The dry whites were picked in fine September weather.

7. The weather changed towards the end of September, and October was up and down.

8. Humid, drizzly weather from 6 October 'encouraged' many to pick.

9. Expensive grape-sorting machines earned their keep.

10. Sauternes had a challenging year, after three great vintages. 

11. Yields were low but not as bad as other parts of France.

12. Quality is uneven but there should be some very good wines.

 

Late winter, late season

The 2012 Spring bud break in the vineyard was much later than usual and a full three weeks later than 2011. Winter was mild until February and the vines didn’t shut down properly for their much needed winter rest until quite late. 

Then we had a bitterly cold February, much chillier than the norm, and the ground froze. It was to be some weeks before the ground warmed up and the vines came out of hibernation.

We’d had three dry vintages on the trot (09, 10 and 11) and the winter of 2011-2012 was quite dry. There was a deficit in the amount of water (December being the exceptional month), with 336mm of rain from October 2011 to March 2012, compared to 457mm - the Bordeaux average of the previous ten years.

April showers, summer drought

After very little rain in February and March, it bucketed down in April - 194mm compared to a 30-year norm of 78mm - and it was cold too (9.9C compared to 12.4C). Vine-growth crawled along at a snail’s pace and mildew soon became a huge threat. May, thankfully, was comparatively dry.

Between March and September 2012, total rainfall was between 420mm and 460mm, depending on the sector. That’s close to the 30 year average in Bordeaux of 476mm. But what matters is the timing of the rain, and almost half the rain in this period fell during the month of April. (Irrigation is banned in Bordeaux, as in other AOCs, so just the right amount of rain and at the right moment is something we pray for.)  

The extremes of the rain in 2012 are shown here, compared to the average each month. An April deluge, a little too much in June, a very dry summer and then rain again in the early autumn.

Rainfall compared to recent vintages 

The April deluge stands out (see comments above) but a key period was during the flowering over a fortnight in the middle of June. The rain in June (80mm here against an average of 62mm) fell on 12 days from 2 June to 20 June, and it was cold in the second week too - a critical moment of flowering. 

As a result, the floraison was drawn out and fruit set was uneven and inconsistent. Some vineyards were absolutely fine, although I have rarely seen bunches of grapes at such different stages of ripening - not just in different plots but from one vine to another, or even from one vine to another. 

Many Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were comparatively large but slightly fewer in number per bunch. One enologist friend reckoned it was because the vine was allowing for room for expansion in the event of rain late in the season. If true, this could have an impact on the quality and character of the wine.

It should be noted just how dry it was during July and especially August. This sets 2012 apart from years like 2006, 2007 and 2011. 

These are the rainfall figures for the month (and the 30 year average in brackets): 

April 194mm (78mm) over 24 days with rain.
May 44 (79.8) over 8 days.
June 79.6 (62.6) over 12 days, notably 2/6 and 9,10,11.
July 35.5 (50), 8 days.
August 26.5 (56) 7 days.
September 56 (90) 7 days, notably 25/9 (see below).

September rain was lower than the average and most of the rain came towards the end of the month (see below).

Note: my figures are from my local weather station, some 15 miles south east of Bordeaux, except the 'average' figures quoted, which are for Bordeaux itself.

August was hot and dry

April was not only very wet, but cold, accentuating the slow start to the growth of the vines.

Here are our monthly temperatures (against the 30 year average):

April 9.9 (12.4)
May 16.5 (16.1)
June 19 (19.3)
July 19.4 (21.3)
August 21.8 (21.4)
September 18.5 (18)

This doesn’t really tell the full story. August, for example, was cool at the beginning and at the end of the month, but we had 12 days of 30 and over between 9 and 27 August, with minimal rain. Many vines, especially young ones, suffered from heat and water stress.

Hours of sunshine

2011 had far more hours of sun in April, accelerating the early growth that year. However, 2012 had more sun than 2011 in each of the months of June, July, August and September, and this should be evident in the wines.

2012 compares very favourably to years like 2006, 2007 and 2011 from June to September, and isn’t far short of the top years. Note how the total hours of sunshine per month in the excellent years of 2005, 2009 and 2010 stack up, and how, for example, the weaker vintage of 2007 was saved by September.

Bordeaux 2012 - a fine September 

After a hot and sunny August, the fine weather continued well into September. Sauvignon Blanc and then Sémillon were picked in excellent weather for the dry whites. The temperature dropped in the second week, which also proved helpful when harvesting the whites. Dry white, however, makes up only a small percentage of the harvest in Bordeaux (less than 10%), so the real money was on the how the reds would ripen. 

The weather turned on the weekend of 23 September, and a handful of estates began picking young Merlots that week. 

In 2011, almost all the reds had been brought in by the end of September but in 2012 very little had been picked to this point. It was a huge contrast, and a reminder of just how the weather controls the vintage.

October harvest for reds

The red harvest began in earnest in the first week of October on both banks. Pomerol was largely completed by the end of the week, with the top estates of St-Emilion only kicking off from Monday 8 October.

The weekend of 7 October proved to be a turning point, as it was both humid and drizzly, forcing many to bring forward their harvest plans in case rot took hold. Some had to compromise between harvesting healthy grapes and physiologically-ripe ones. 

Most estates had wrapped up the red harvest by the time of the heavier downpours on the 19 October. This would have favoured Merlot from the better terroirs over the later-ripening Cabernets. Having said that, all the Cabernet Sauvignon I saw being brought in on the Left Bank in mid-October looked in very healthy condition.

The above rainfall figures are from my local weather station. Rain in Pauillac, for example, was heavier than here around 14 October to 20 October. 

Meanwhile, it was a difficult year in Sauternes as a result of the drought in the summer and rain in the autumn, with Yquem, Rieussec and Raymond declaring that they wouldn't be making a Grand Vin this year.

Personally, I think Bordeaux needed a fortnight of better weather at the end, but that’s always going to be the risk with a later harvest. It's not that the grapes were unripe, it’s just a shame that after a marathon growing season and a fabulous summer in 2012, we limped across the finishing line. The opportunity to make outstanding wines across the board disappeared as Autumn closed in.

帕克（Parker）评分推动宝得根（Pontet Canet）价格

“另一出色年份”是帕克（Parker）給2010年波尔多葡萄酒的定奪。他的在瓶分数於上周五公布， 2010年份的葡萄酒上周初在Liv-ex的交易也在预期中上升。虽然被授予完美的分数的2010年的葡萄酒比2009年較少 - 共10個 ; 帕克认为這两个年份是他34年来尝過中最好的年份。

当中有6个葡萄酒庄的两个年份都得到完美的帕克分数: 奥比昂Haut-Brion (LWIN 1011247)，拉图Latour (LWIN 1012316), Beausejour Duffau Lagarrosse (LWIN 1006423), 乐邦 Le Pin (LWIN 1014192), 柏图斯Petrus (LWIN 1014033) 和宝得根 Pontet Canet (LWIN 1014307)。其中，宝得根的成绩是最引人注目的: 一个五級酒莊具有一級酒莊的品质。如下图所示，帕克得分對葡萄酒的价格有显着的影响。2010年份宝得根每箱12x75成交價在12月约1,300英镑，在周末价格便躍升至1,600英镑。虽然这个價位是一个五級酒莊的新领域，但其一直保持高位的葡萄酒得分显示它非凡地物有所值。

 

自分数被公布以来, 2010年份的葡萄酒一直有稳定的交易，而100分的Pape Clement (LWIN 1013690)也正寻找买家。同时，碧尚男爵(Pichon Baron)卻令人有些失望: 其每箱12x75的交易价在帕克评分公布前夕由1,576英镑升至1,845英镑，但當得知該酒不是” 滿分党 ”的一員時，其价格隨即回落。

Parker scores push Pontet prices

 ‘Another great vintage’ was Parker’s verdict on Bordeaux 2010. His in-bottle scores were released on Friday, with 2010 trade on Liv-ex picking up earlier that week in anticipation. Although fewer perfect scores were awarded than for the 2009s – ten in total – Parker deemed the two vintages the very best that he has tasted in 34 years.

Six wines have the accolade of receiving perfect Parker scores for both vintages: Haut-Brion (LWIN 1011247), Latour (LWIN 1012316), Beausejour Duffau Lagarrosse (LWIN 1006423), Le Pin (LWIN 1014192), Petrus (LWIN 1014033) and Pontet Canet (LWIN 1014307). Of these, Pontet Canet’s achievement is the most striking: a Fifth Growth wine with First Growth quality. As seen below, Parker’s score has had a notable effect on its prices. Having traded for around £1,300 per 12x75 in December, Pontet Canet 2010’s price shot to £1,600 over the weekend. While this price is new territory for this Fifth Growth, its score and the company which it keeps at the top suggests that the wine offers remarkable value for money. 

There has been steady trade for the 2010s since the scores were released, with the new 100 point Pape Clement (LWIN 1013690) also finding buyers. Meanwhile Pichon Baron was a disappointment to some: its trade price lifted from £1,576 to £1,845 per 12x75 before Parker’s scores were announced but dropped back once it was known that the wine had not joined the 100 point club.  

'Truly superb': Bordeaux 2010

James Suckling and Jean-Marc Quarin have released their scores following tastings in Bordeaux for the 2010s.

This is evidently an exceptional vintage for both. Suckling is particularly effusive, awarding 11 wines a perfect score of 100 – compared to the nine 100 points he awarded the 2009s. His scores are largely higher than Quarin’s, with those in our table averaging 98.4 compared to the latter’s 96.2. The critics also differ on a couple of wines: Suckling calls Figeac 2010 (LWIN 10097692010) ‘breathtaking’ and awards it 98 points, whereas Quarin gives the wine only 89.

 There are clearly some stand-out wines. Cheval Blanc (LWIN 10081082010) and Latour (LWIN 10123162010) receive 100 points from both critics, with Suckling describing the former as ‘Truly one of the greatest Chevals ever. Better than the 2009.’ In his report on the scores Suckling reflects on the relative merits of the 2009s and 2010s, describing the latter as ‘a twin vintage in quality’ although ‘very much different in style’ to the 2009, and affirming that ‘outstanding wines exist across the board in both vintages, from the greatest chateaux to the simplest vineyard.’  

A selection of their top scores is below, with wines ranked in descending order according to their combined score from the two critics. Liv-ex members may be interested to note that we currently have 153 active markets for Bordeaux 2010 on the exchange. 

*En Primeur score used, no update available

Source: www.jamessuckling.com and www.quarin.com

Jancis Robinson MW on Bordeaux 2009

Jancis Robinson MW has published her scores on the Bordeaux 2009s, following the annual tasting event organised by recently retired Bordeaux négocient Bill Blatch in Southwold. The table below collates some of her scores for Left Bank and Right Bank wines, with the First Growths at the top of the table.

Although Robinson mentions tasting ‘many great bottles’ in her notes, her scores may seem a little low for what is considered as a historically great vintage. They certainly don’t include the plethora of top scores given during in-bottle tastings last year by Robert Parker (his ‘perfect’ 2009s are marked on the below table with an asterisk).  For Robinson, it is Mouton (‘real energy here’) that is the best of the Left Bank 2009s. Nevertheless, her tasting notes acknowledge Latour as ‘favourite of the group’, although she awards its second wine a higher score. Forts Latour far-outperforms the other second wines of the Firsts, which receive several of the lower scores.

Over on the Right Bank, Clinet and L’Eglise Clinet were the only wines to receive 19 points. Petrus and Ausone also scored highly. For all of the scores and notes from the tasting visit www.jancisrobinson.com. 

Jean-Marc Quarin: Château Margaux vs Château Haut-Brion

 

On Thursday we published Liv-ex’s interview with the Bordeaux-based wine critic Jean-Marc Quarin. We have recently added 5,300 of Jean-Marc Quarin's tasting scores to Cellar Watch and Liv-ex. Today’s blog features his tasting report on back vintages for Haut-Brion and Margaux.

As a special promotion, Jean-Marc Quarin is also offering a 33% discount on a yearly subscription to his website www.quarin.com - now €60 instead of €90. To take advantage of this discount, please enter the code suite30 when signing up. This offer is available until 20^th January 2013. 

A yearly subscription to Jean-Marc Quarin's website gives access to the following:

 • Over 30,000 wine reviews, available both in French and English
 • Extensive en primeur coverage throughout April on 400-500 wines: daily reports, tasting notes and vintage analysis
 • 20 Chronicles a year on the latest Bordeaux news and updated tasting notes
 • Audio interviews with winemakers at harvest time
 • Access to all previously published content since 1989: over 139 chronicles, 63 reports and tasting notes
 • Access to both the English and French versions of the website. 

The below article is copyright Jean-Marc Quarin.

 

Château Margaux versus Château Haut-Brion: 1996, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008

From Chronicle n° 127 ( February 8, 2012)



What an evening!

Take the word of a demanding critic for it! Grander than the comparative tasting Petrus – Le Pin, better than Mouton-Rothschild versus Lafite-Rothschild versus Latour, or even than the Mouton-Rothschild vertical - with 50 vintages in the line-up. It truly was a celebration of the gôut à la française, with a dazzling Château Margaux and infinite pleasure each mouthful we took. The outcome was particularly gratifying for me, as Château Margaux has pride of place in my book as the leading red in Bordeaux. All that remained to be done was to sample it blind and in public from bottles that had been purchased. I was not disappointed. 


This hedonistic and aesthetic success has a lot to do with Haut Brion and château Margaux both boasting a gloriously elegant tactile feel on the palate, plenty of taste, refine tannins and a beautifully aromatic length. And yet, they are not alike. 


Because of a higher percentage of merlot, for the same vintage, Haut Brion’s colour often appears more evolved than château Margaux’s – a give-away at blind tastings.

On the nose, the merlot gives Haut Brion a more meaty character, when the expression of fruit is more vibrant and precise in château Margaux. I expected to find the typical smoky notes of the Pessac appellation in Haut Brion, but I found more of them in château Margaux! They are induced by new oak, without the wine ever being oaky – a beauty!

On the palate, château Margaux is better structured and more powerful, which can be explained not only by lower yields but above all by a higher vine density (10, 000 vines/ha) than at Haut Brion - now increasing density whenever replanting.  Although the merlot percentage – the variety responsible for the quality on entry - is higher in Haut Brion, château Margaux’s presence and flesh on entry are truly sublime. The quality of its flesh also seems to be linked to a riper harvest. Too many green hints can be perceived on the nose for Haut Brion. Since Jean-Philippe Delmas took over from his father at the Haut Brion estate, he has been particularly attentive to picking at the right point of maturity and has brought in the cabernet sauvignon later on in the season. The change can be felt from the 2007 vintage onwards and is particularly clear in the 2008, the only Haut Brion bottle to perform better than château Margaux in the tasting. 


On the palate, the two leaders do not evolve the same way. Château Margaux is often denser and fuller on entry - a characteristic it retains right through to the finish. Haut Brion tends to be more discreet to start with- hence the impression of crescendo in its journey through the palate. I was very impressed by some vintages when aromas came bouncing back on finish - a precious and rare occurrence for any wine which Haut Brion should endeavour to include in its signature. 


Conclusion:

All the participants were bowled over by the incredibly high standard and the divine pleasure induced by the wines. They did not expect to be so, which goes to show that no matter how prestigious the labels, they still have a way to go to let their true worth known.

The tasting brought to light that the top vintages can easily be over-estimated and that the true worth of the allegedly smaller vintages is often overlooked. The discrimination between great and small years may have made sense in the past, but things have definitely changed. The superb way the lesser praised vintages now hold their own is a credit to both estates’ drive for quality. Before the tasting, who would have bet on the 2002 performing better than the 1996? A bottle of Château Margaux is first and foremost the soul of château Margaux, before being of any given year. 


The wines were served blind and decanted in the order below and in flights of four. Date: January 30, 2012.



 

First flight: 2002 versus 1996


MARGAUX 2002


Score out of 20 : 18,5    Score out of 100 : 96

Logo on cork : upside down T

An incredible score given the year! The bottle performed very well - better than in Paris 12 months ago. Was it down to a longer decantation, the cork, or simply the current state of the wine? A score to be confirmed.

Refine and clean nose of fruit, with delicate hints of truffle and a pinch of coconut. Mellow, melting and powerful with lush taste of truffle. Precise texture throughout. Refine tannins on finish. A beauty! Taste it now - before 2025.

Pleasure score: 17 (94)

HAUT BRION 2002  

Score out of 20 : 17,25        Score out of 100 : 94

Logo on cork : upside down T

A less bright and intense red. Fresh and subtle nose of flowers, but no surge of aromas after stirring. Lively and perky on the palate, with plenty of taste and refine tannins, but a touch over-oaky. Good finish, but showing a little too much restraint overall. Wait until 2015.

Pleasure score: 16.5 (92)

HAUT BRION 1996  

Score out of 20 : 16    Score out of 100 : 90

Logo on cork : upside down T


Dense colour with tawny hues. Slightly green on the nose. Pleasantly soft tactile feel on the palate, a touch dull taste-wise and firmer on finish. Somewhat lacking in generosity. The previous 1996 Haut Brion, which I tasted at the estate, performed better.  

MARGAUX 1996 

Score out of 20 : 17,25        Score out of 100 : 94

Logo on cork : upside down T


Deep red with brick hues. Intense and elegant nose of fresh and ripe fruit. Aromatic and lively on the palate, quite racy – almost vivid - but particularly savoury on finish. Gorgeous aromatic length with fine-grained tannins and personality. 2012-2013.

Pleasure score: 16.5 (92)

  

Second flight: 2003 versus 2000

A truly outstanding flight that bowled us over. The progress in quality due to a better maturity of the grapes came to light, and favoured the 2003s.

HAUT BRION 2003  

Score out of 20 : 17.75        Score out of 100 : 95

Logo on cork : upside down T


Intense deep dark red. Refine, subtle and smoked nose of truffle and ripe fruit. Velvety on entry, if not boasting a particularly tight frame. Melting with grace through to the utterly delicious, tasty and subtly discreet finish. Good length. Drink 2012- 2040.

Pleasure score: 17 (94)

MARGAUX 2003    

Score out of 20 : 20    Score out of 100 : 100

Logo on cork : Letter « A » inside a circle

Intense deep red.  Truly magnificent nose of truffle and ripe fruits with notes of coffee and a floral hint. Positively dazzling and superbly generous and broad on entry then revealing layers of complex and lush aromas before liveliness and freshness spring back on the palate. Powerful, fleshy, juicy and complex through to the long lingering and incredibly elegant finish.  Sublime !  The perfect balance between fat and liveliness. A beauty! Drink 2012-2020.

2 bottles have had a similar score since June 2011.

Pleasure score: 18 (96)

MARGAUX 2000  

Score out of 20 : 19    Score out of 100 : 98

Logo on cork : upside down T

Beautiful deep dark red. Complex, clean and subtle nose - less intense than the 2003 but fresh. Pretty entry: delicately pulpy, subtle and crammed with taste. Perky on the palate, melting with grace and revealing tannins a touch firm and slightly less ripe than the 2003. Yet, its elegance and the fresh expression of fruit are a true wonder. Only now beginning to open up. From 2015.

Pleasure score: 17 (94)

HAUT BRION 2000   

Score out of 20 : 18    Score out of 100 : 96

Logo on cork : upside down T


Intense deep red with brick hues. A hint of greenness on the nose – a shame, really. Broad and generous on entry, with fruit, leading to a beautifully fat and powerful performance and ripe expression of fruit. Tannic on finish. Once again, the unique and distinctive presence on finish and the length are the true hallmark of the cru. Drink 2015-2045.

Pleasure score: 16.5 (92)

 

Third flight : 2005 versus 2004 – surprises in store !

HAUT BRION 2005    

Score out of 20: 16.75        Score out of 100 : 93

Logo on cork : upside down T


Deep dark red. Rather animal nose- very merlot. Fresh and slightly green at the same time. Lacking a real presence on entry but then becoming silky, smokey and aromatic - but not convincingly enticing. Showing restraint on finish. Average length leading to a dead end. Should be left to brood in the cellar.

Pleasure score: 16 (90)

MARGAUX 2005   

Score out of 20 : 18    Score out of 100 : 96

Logo on cork: upside down T


Deep dark red, more youthful than Haut Brion. Intense and refine nose of ripe fruit – subtle and complex. Stunning on the palate: fleshy, melting and wonderfully aromatic. Marked but refine tannins on finish with elegant taste and a hint of ink and blackcurrant. A beauty! To be honest, I never realized I was sampling the 2005! Leave it to brood in your cellar until 2020.

Pleasure score: 16.5 (92)

HAUT BRION 2004    

Score out of 20 : 17.25        Score out of 100 : 94

Logo on cork : upside down T


More evolved in colour than château Margaux. Less vibrant on the nose - less fresh, more merlot and animal. Discreet entry and average mid-palate with a velvety tactile feel in the mouth. The cru’s signature really comes on on finish when the wine unfurls layers of gorgeous taste, a superbly elegant tactile feel and wonderfully refine tannins. Good length. 2018-2035.

Pleasure score: 16.5 (92)

MARGAUX 2004    

Score out of 20 : 18   Score out of 100 : 96

Logo on cork : upside down T

Bright glossy crimson. Mighty nose of ripe fruit: deep, complex and elegant. Precise on entry - very much in the spirit of the estate - then unfurling layers of vibrant fruit and taste with gorgeous notes of vanilla and smoke. Melting through to the stunning and complex length, with a delicate pinch of oak. Impossible not to swallow!  This 2004 took my preference over the 2005.  Drink 2016- 2035

Pleasure score: 17 (94)

 

Fourth flight : 2008 versus 2006 (a vintage that is now closing in)

HAUT BRION 2008    

Score out of 20 : 18    Score out of 100 : 96

Logo on cork : upside down T

Bright purplish crimson. Fresh nose of fruit, still discreet and …too young! Pretty flesh on entry leading to plenty of aromas and fat, a gorgeous tactile feel on the palate and tight-ish frame. Tends to perform as a white wine would: melting away and remaining ethereal. Truly magnificent - and impossible not to swallow!

For the second time since October, this wine has proved to be a stunner. The only Haut Brion to outdo château Margaux. From 2020.

Pleasure score: 16.5 (92)

MARGAUX 2008    

Score out of 20 : 17.75        Score out of 100 : 95

Logo on cork : upside down T


Beautiful youthful colour. Refine and subtle nose of fruit and truffle. Slightly firmer than Haut Brion on the palate, but remaining complex. Lifted and savoury through to a beautifully tasty length with fruit and truffle. From 2020.

Pleasure score: 16.5 (92)

HAUT BRION 2006   

Score out of 20 : 16.75        Score out of 100 : 93

 Logo on cork : upside down T


Deep red with brick hues. Old-fashioned nose, with green hints. Superbly soft on entry but then a touch vivid. Marked tannins on finish. Average length. Lacking presence overall and not quite on a par with the other more recent vintages.

Pleasure score: 15.5 (88)

MARGAUX 2006    

Score out of 20 : 17.25        Score out of 100 : 94

Logo on cork : upside down T


Fairly intense red. Bursting with fruit and smoke on the nose. A touch austere on entry then revealing a juicy and generous character on the mid-palate through to a wonderfully savoury and long finish with taste and a slightly firm frame. The wine is closed-in. From 2020.

Pleasure score: 16.5 (92)




 

Fifth flight : 2007 versus 2001

HAUT BRION 2007    


Score out of 20 : 16.75       Score out of 100 : 93 


Logo on cork : upside down T


Deep purplish crimson. Discreet on the nose. Melting from start to finish, with layers of aromas and taste, a hint of ink and fruits. Refine tannins and average body. Drink 2012-2030.

Pleasure score: 16.5 (92)


MARGAUX 2007    


Score out of 20 : 17.25        Score out of 100 : 94 


Logo on cork : upside down T


Deep red with brick hues. Bursting with vibrant fruit on the nose. Exquisite flesh on entry, wonderfully vibrant on the mid palate, melting and superbly tasty throughout. Long lingering and complex finish revealing layers of taste. Impossible not to swallow! You can decant it a couple of hours before serving. Drink 2012-2022.

Pleasure score: 17 (94)

MARGAUX 2001   

Score out of 20 : 16.5        Score out of 100 : 92


Logo on cork : upside down T


To me, the stewed nose – not at all representative of Margaux -  and the over-simple performance on the palate point to a bottle at odds with the standard. I particularly enjoyed the 2001 vintage last May, grading it 17.25 (94).


HAUT BRION 2001    


Score out of 20 : 16.75    Score out of 100 : 93


Logo on cork : upside down T

Suave on entry and more racy on finish – a paradox pointing to a faulty bottle. Last May a bottle from the same case scored 18.75 (97), which I believe to be its true worth. 




Bordeaux 2012: Late start, scorching summer

Guest blog: the Bordeaux grower, local winemaker and writer Gavin Quinney (@GavinQuinney) provides an insider’s view on the 2012 growing season. 

After a late start to the growing season and mixed weather right up until mid-July, we’ve enjoyed a lovely summer in this corner of France. As the Bordelais head back to work after a scorching August, the sunshine looks set to continue, with 30˚C predicted for the Médoc marathon this weekend (see above).  There’s still a long way to go though before the red-wine harvest gets under way.

No two growing seasons are ever the same in Bordeaux but the contrast between 2011 and 2012 could not be more striking. Last year, there was an early budburst and the flying start was accelerated by a warm, dry spring. The lack of rain carried on until the second week of July, with many vines suffering in the drought-like conditions. The summer was then up and down, topped off by an early harvest of the dry whites at the end of August. Almost all the reds and sweet whites in 2011 were brought in during September, which is uncommonly early. The last time that happened was in 2003, an altogether different vintage.

After a dry winter, with concerns once more about drought, and a cold February, budbreak was a full three weeks later in 2012 than last year and a week later than the norm. It then fairly bucketed down in April (we had 194mm of rain compared to 12mm last year) and, since then, vignerons have had to be especially vigilant in keeping mildew at bay in 2012.

After fine weather at the end of May, the flowering in June was drawn out, with rain during the first two weekends of the month. The problem was not so much poor fruit set or low yields, although there is some millerandage and coulure (poor fruit set), but I can’t recall seeing – across the region – such different stages of evolution from one bunch to the next, let alone one vine to the next. From that point on, it was certainly going to be a late harvest, with a risk that ripeness would be uneven.

If 2011 had a spring that was more like summer, and a summer more like spring, then 2012 is truer to type. From the end of the second week of July onwards, we’ve had one of the best summers I can recall, with some welcome rain during the first weekend of August (when we were glued to the Olympics). For the last month, it’s been hot, sunny and very dry.

In fact it was rather too hot and dry for some vines in August. The mini-heatwave has meant that some vines have simply closed down in the sweltering heat. Some exposed bunches have also had a grilling.

The August veraison, again far later than last year, was protracted - just like the flowering back in June. In most parcels, the grapes changed colour at a leisurely pace and the uneven levels of ripeness remain a challenge.

After such a hot August, you might think that we’d be getting ready to harvest. That may be true for the dry whites but if you’re coming to the region to see the Merlots being picked, you’re best to book from late September onwards (precocious parts of Pomerol and Pessac-Léognan excepted). As for the Cabernets, aim for October.

The next few weeks, in the build-up to the harvest, will be crucial. It’s all to play for.

Liv-ex interview with James Suckling, part one: Bordeaux 2011

James Suckling was in London last week and set aside some time to speak to us. The first part of our interview with him is shown below and focuses on the 2011 vintage and his experiences of tasting En Primeur. In part two, which will be published early next week, James discusses his favourite regions, his departure from the Wine Spectator and his relationship with Robert Parker.

You recently returned from Bordeaux, where you tasted the 2011 vintage. What were your overall impressions?

It is a very good to excellent vintage. The top estates, through their viticultural and winemaking expertise, can make excellent wines in challenging vintages nowadays. 2011 was difficult due to the growing season: the spring was very hot and dry, the summer was quite cool and not that sunny, and then you had an Indian summer. Some areas were affected by hail in early September and then you had an onslaught of botrytis as well. But the Bordelais are the best viticulturalists in the world and they know how to handle these difficult decisions. In the end, the top estates, and even some smaller estates, made some very good wines.

What are the defining characteristics of the vintage?

Denis Durantou of Eglise Clinet explained it to me best. If you look at it analytically, the wines tend to have the same amount of tannin as in 2010 and the same acidity level, but with around one degree less alcohol. So what you have are skinny, lanky wines that are not that big and voluptuous. I suppose you could describe them as slightly emaciated models.

What is good about the vintage?

The vintage harks back to the classic style of Bordeaux. It has a slight austerity and firmness with a nice perfume.

I have been tasting from barrel since 1982 and I was recently trying to remember what the wines remind me of. Perhaps 1986, with which it shares a tannic structure, although there aren’t the same highlights in 2011 that we saw in 1986, such as Mouton or Las Cases. Or maybe even 1975, but more modern, with riper tannins. Qualitatively, I think we are at the same level as 2004 (which I feel is underrated) or 2001. But stylistically, I would have to say 1986 or 1975.

I would say it is better than 1996, which is overrated apart from the very top Medoc wines, and it is better than 2008, which has a really high acidity that I don’t get on with.

Which wines and regions excelled?

Those producers that worked on picking the best possible grapes and then didn’t work them too much, with shorter macerations and lower extraction of tannin, tended to excel. Argilo-calcaire [clay and limestone] soils were also an advantage as they retained the moisture better during the drought. I also tended to like the wines high in Cabernet Franc, such as VCC, Ausone, Figeac and Cheval Blanc. Overall, I think the vintage has favoured the Right Bank.

Over on the Left Bank, Latour was fantastic, one of the wines of the vintage, along with Palmer and Mouton. And one that people should really consider is Pichon Lalande. It reminds me of their wines from the 1980s, such as the 1983 or 1986. Since Roederer bought it, Pichon has really got back to its best. They’ve cut out some of the Petit Verdot in the blend and that has really helped.

And don’t forget the whites. They are phenomenal and will be up there with classic years such as 2007, 2004 1997 and 1995 – really great with lovely richness and super-lively acidity. The Sauternes are also excellent.

What didn’t you like?

St Estephe was disappointing as many producers were forced to pick early due to the hail. The wines tend to be a bit lean and hollow. And from Margaux I found a lot of skinny and short wines, although Rauzan Segla was good and Palmer was amazing – one of the wines of the vintage.

What was the mood in Bordeaux, particularly around pricing?

Everyone from wine merchants to chateau owners, negociants and courtiers agreed that prices must come down enough to give people the incentive to buy these wines. But I’ve been doing this for 30 years and I’ve heard the same thing for 30 years. The only time they came down in a proper way was for the 2008s, when everyone thought we were in economic Armageddon and had no choice but to slash prices. This time I’m a little bit concerned. I know the top wine producers have very good intentions, but unfortunately it doesn’t always come out in the right way.

The wines need to come out below the price of the least expensive wine on the market. It’s going to be really hard for the very top estates to do that. The First Growths need to be under €300 per bottle and the Seconds at round €80, depending on the chateau. That’s a tough bullet to bite for some producers. But I hope that they do it – they’ve made a lot of money in recent years and now it’s time to provide some incentives to true lovers of Bordeaux. This is a vintage for those that love drinking claret; I don’t think it will be an investment vintage at all.

What do you look for when tasting out of barrel? Is it difficult?

The key thing to remember is that the nose isn’t important at all. I learnt that from Daniel Lawton, one of the great negociants of Bordeaux. The important thing is the texture – the quality of the tannins and how they relate to the acidity and alcohol – and then the finish. Wines with long seamless finishes are really the great wines. It’s not all about power.

It takes a long time before you can taste En Primeur properly. There’s a hierarchy in Bordeaux that helps as you can kind of figure out what should taste good. But to really understand how wines evolve you need a good 10 years of tasting. Bordeaux gets around 4,000 people arriving to taste EP each year, but I’m not sure how many of them really know how to taste properly. It’s not as easy as it seems and it’s a hell of a job.

There are always some doubts over the validity of tasting samples and whether they really represent the finished wine. What’s your opinion?

I find that, in general, they don’t play around with samples too much. If they do it becomes apparent afterwards when the wines are in bottle. What’s really important is the quality of the sample: how fresh it is, the temperature, and how much sulphur they have used. All of those things will change your interpretation. A warmer sample will appear softer and rounder and the alcohol will be more apparent. You also have to consider the air pressure on that day. A high-pressure day tends to show samples better than a low-pressure day.

I tend to like colder samples fresh from the barrel. A couple of times this year I said to the winemaker that I wasn’t very keen on the sample and asked to go into the cellar to taste the wine and all the various components.

When you taste at En Primeur you are just taking a photograph. And just like a good photo, a tasting needs to be properly thought out.

Another issue that keeps being discussed is the time of tasting. Famously, you tend to taste and report earlier than others. What’s your take on that?

I don’t really understand what the issue is. I’ve been tasting for 30 years at the same time [in March] and if other people want to taste early they should do it. A week or two doesn’t really have an impact on the wine and the chateau owners are happy about me coming when I do, so why not? Some of the big tastings during En Primeur week are what the Brits would call a “bun fight”. That’s not the proper way to taste wines. I like to taste calmly and spend time with people. It takes me two weeks to get through all of the wines. A lot of people taste 200 wines in four days. I don’t think it’s possible to do that properly.

Are there any favourite areas that you particularly like tasting in?

I love going to Pomerol. It’s like being in Burgundy, but with the producers paying more attention to detail. I think the wines are just fascinating. You can stand in the vineyards of VCC and you can see Petrus and Conseillante right next door, but they all have their own distinct styles.

You would think that after doing this for so long that I would be pretty jaded, but as soon as I go there, speak to the winemakers and taste some of the wines, I realise why I love this job.

What are your favourite Bordeaux back vintages and how would you rank them?

If I put recent vintages in order of preference then I would start with 2009, followed by 2010, 2005, 1989, 2000 and then 1982. I love drinking the 1982s, but there is such bottle variation and the yields were double what they are now. I remember asking Christian Moueix back in the early ‘80s what he thought of 1982 and he said, “We would have had another 1945 on our hands if the yields had been lower.”

But 2009 really is the vintage of our generation. I have absolutely no doubts. I tasted a number on my recent trip and they are just so beautiful. But from an investment perspective, I wouldn’t go near it. I think prices might go down when the euphoria from my high scores and Robert Parker’s high scores has died down.

And 1990? That seems to be missing from your list.

For me, the 1990s come just after the 1982s. There are some beautiful wines from the vintage, but I think the 1989s are going to be greater wines in the long run as they are that little bit more structured. There are some exceptions, like 1990 Latour, which is just incredible. Also, a lot of the 1990s have a problem with Brettanomyces because they didn’t use enough sulphur during the elevage. Although, you still have to say that they are great wines.

If a friend asked which back vintages to buy, where would you steer them?

I would buy Right Bank and Pessac Leognan wines from 1998 and 2001. They are both great, underrated vintages that provide good value, particularly if you stay clear of the Left Bank. I also like 2004, across the board. I have been buying and drinking a lot of wines from these vintages and they are drinking fantastically at great prices.

Check back on Monday to find out more about James' departure from the Wine Spectator, his path to wine journalism and his relationship with Robert Parker.

Lafite: The force behind last month's losses

The Liv-ex Fine Wine 100 Index lost four per cent in August - its third-most dramatic monthly fall since its inception in 2001. Though the majority of index constituents performed poorly - most notably the First Growths - the real millstone was Lafite Rothschild. 

Recent vintages of Lafite were under acute pressure last month, so much so that all but the 2004 saw significant price slides. The 1998 and 2008 vintages declined by around ten per cent each, whilst the 2003 and 2005 both dropped by eight per cent.

Because the Liv-ex Fine Wine 100 Index is production and scarcity weighted, and the First Growths are produced in sizeable quantities, recent vintages of Lafite have a profound effect on its monthly movements. The chart below compares the performance of the Liv-ex Fine Wine 100 Index to that of Lafite since December 2010.

    

Super Second prices soar

For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. Newton may not have had the fine wine market in mind when he penned the third law, but it seems particularly apt in light of the First Growths and the Super Seconds divergent fortunes. Over the past few months, First Growth prices (and those for their second wines) have been relatively static. But where demand for the First Growths has faltered, and buyers have been disinclined to invest in the top-tier (and most expensive) Left-Bank wines, the so-called Super Seconds have picked up the pace.

As you can see in the chart below, prices for the Super Seconds have risen by an average of 23 per cent in the year to date, compared to eight per cent for the First Growths (as measured by the Liv-ex Fine Wine 50 Index) and six per cent for their second wines.

 
The last ten vintages of Pichon Baron have led the charge, rising in value by an average of just under 40 per cent since the start of the year. Ducru Beaucaillou and Pontet Canet (considered a Super Second or Flying Fifth) have gained 37 per cent each, whilst Montrose and Cos d'Estournel are up 30 per cent and 25 per cent respectively. Despite their ascent, a number of vintages continue to offer strong value. A selection of these are displayed below. Liv-ex trading members can view live markets here.

 
All prices are for 12x75cl cases stored in bond.